Basics of Bead Show Bargaining - Part 1

First of all, let's not get our panties in a twist  - this is not about racism!  I'm going to be talking about societies and cultures, and politeness and expectations on both sides.  If I mention X nationality, I do NOT mean "every single person from X country, in every single situation, EVAR."  This is just my experience, OK?

Well, now that that's out of the way, let's get started.  Bargaining and bartering are the very first form of commerce known to mankind (and among the higher apes as well).  Ayn Rand said it best "Value for value".  Something is only worth as much as the other person is willing to pay for it.  Anyone who's seen a tacky beer mug go for $2,000 on Ebay knows exactly what I'm talking about.

First up, we're going to discuss Arabic cultures.  Bartering may be prehistoric, but it took the Semitic peoples (Jews, Arabs and Bedouin) to bring it to a high art form.  (More on dealing with Jews later.)  The term "Camel Trader" oft comes to mind.

"For you my friend, special price!"

Yes, they really do say that.  And it's true, you are their friend.  Everyone who walks into the booth with cash is an instant friend.  It's part of the culture of hospitality.  If you were in their home, no matter how they felt about you personally, they'd still offer you a cup of strong mint tea.  It's a matter of personal honor.  Smile back, and start admiring all the pretties.

The Middle East offers some of the most gorgeous gemstones in the world.  For example, the best lapis lazuli comes from Afghanistan.  The Arabic people are fiercely proud of their country's products, so don't be afraid to praise the items often, and loudly.  Sigh wistfully, turn things this way and that against the light, comment on the color and clarity with awe.  When you're done, put the most expensive items down and start to walk away, but look back at it over your shoulder as if you were taking leave of your lover. 

The proprietor is sure to take note of this, and will start trying to get you to reconsider that strand of beads you just abandoned.  Look at what you have in your hands that you are willing to buy.  Agree with him that his wares are worth every penny, and regret that it is simply not in your budget.  Watch carefully as his eyes light up.  In Arabic cultures, if you do not bargain, they have no respect for you - you are an idiot.  The harder you bargain, the more they love you.  It's a bonding thing.  It's like playing chess against the master.  There's no animosity here, so don't feel like you're being rude or insulting, quite the opposite.  Keep smiling, and LET THE GAMES BEGIN!

Now, here's the basic formula.  I'll try to keep the numbers round, because I'm horrible with math (another good reason to bargain).

What you have in your hand comes to 78.00  What you want to add to that costs 100.00, so together that's 178.00.  So far, we're looking at retail (or wholesale, if you're in the dealer's room, even better!)  Try to knock the price down to around 30% less or so, so let's say 140.00 even.  He says he can't possibly go that far, and offers 160.00.  You tell him that the piece is gorgeous, and certainly worth it, but after all, you have to stick to your budget and that you're pushing it already.  You offer 145.00, he offers 155.00  You say 150.00? and give him a BIG smile.  He smiles back and agrees. 

You're not done yet.  If he pulls out his calculator to start figuring taxes, you give him the big blinky eyes and say "No tax?" and then stare him down, but keep smiling until he puts the calculator away.  You are NOT encouraging him to commit tax fraud,  you're just asking for another percentage off of the final sale.  He'll take the tax out of the back end of the sale at the end of the day.  If he offers his hand, shake it.  If you're a woman, he may or may not offer.  Go with the flow.

BIG TIP:  Do not ask if they have a catalog or online shop until you are DONE with your bargaining.  If they think you're just wasting time in the booth, and you may or may not order online at a later time, they will go and assist someone else.  Vendors hate "lookie loos".  Accept any promotional brochures as you leave, and assure him that you look forward to building a business relationship with him in the future.  Use the word "relationship", it's another good key word in their culture.

Bonus round:  If you're brought a friend to the show, and you've separated for a moment, make a point of bringing him or her over to the booth you just bought from, and introduce them to the owner.  Loudly praise the merchandise and prices to your friend, and tell them that they should buy here next time they need XYZ items. 

Next entry, how to deal with those clever Jews (and I should know, I am one!)

Artists Survival Guide (for a down economy)

I followed a link from Timothy Adam's Handmadeology blog, to Etsy's top 1000 sellers list.  WOW.  Talk about informative.  I'm seeing a definite trend here - and realizing that I am in no way anywhere near that trend.  Time to rethink and retool!

The number one seller is Beanforest.  They make items that are easily to print and reprint, can be sent out for assembly, and don't cost over $10.  Not gonna lie, I seriously love this button. 

The second place seller has been in the top 10 for quite a few years now.  AndersonSoapCompany has beautiful photography and packaging, luscious presentation, high quality control - and importantly, these items are consumable, which means that you will run out, and have to go back to him to get more.  That's instant customer retention right there.

The third place seller has also been at the top for a long time, TheBlackApple.  Darling art prints that appeal both to kids, and adults who appreciate a whimsical, folksy feeling.  Reproduceable, low prices, original art = good formula for success. 

Fourth place is norajane, who sells scrapbooking supplies.  Hardly anything in the shop is over $5.00.  This little bird stamp is too adorable, the lines are razor sharp, and only $4.00.  It's the perfect impulse buy, and since it's not too expensive, why not get a few more and make a set?

Other sellers in the top 20 are people who make t-shirts, baked goods, and VERY simple jewelry that can easily be assembled or outsourced in bulk. Honestly, a lot of it can be found ready to sell on Alibaba.com.  Crochet and knitting patters are big sellers, because all you are getting is a pdf file in your inbox, so there is no shortage of stock and no storage, either.  Just watch out for copyright violations!

1.  Easily reproducable.  Prints, whether on t-shirts, greeting cards, custom labels or prints of original art, are HOT sellers with low prices.  They appeal to the eye, make you happy for very little money, and can be either outsourced for production or made to order.  Storage is only a hard drive away (as opposed to my bead shop, which takes up an whole room).  This is also true for patterns and tutorials that are sent in pdf form. 

2.  Consumables.  Bath, beauty, food - anything that you will use up and have to replace.  If you fall in love with a product, and know that it was handmade (or formulated and outsourced) by only one seller, then that is the person you will return to again and again.  Revlon, you can get anywhere, but where else are you going to get that perfect "pink-mauve lip gloss with the vanilla tangerine flavor" that you've had mixed up custom for you?  Loyalty is priceless.

3.  Simple jewelry.  No one seems to want to spend money on statement pieces these days.  In a bad economy, showing off a big fancy piece seems gauche, somehow.  People want "elegant chic", something that they can wear every single day, and they'd prefer not to pay over $25.00 for it.  Chinese jewelry manufacturers follow US fashion trends, and are cranking out owls, sparrows, lockets, octopi, mustaches and pin up girls faster than you can possibly imagine.  They'll even add the chain and gift box it for you, for the grand total of .89 cents per unit, as long as you order 120 pieces minimum.  Judging by how many sales this type of jewelry gets, buying in bulk doesn't seem like such a bad idea after all!

4.  Not so high up on the list, but still prominent, was factory made handbags, computer bags and clothing from Thailand and Indonesia.  Etsy truly is a "global marketplace" these days, and they seem to have lifted all restrictions on reselling manufactured imports.  I mean, sure, this stuff is handmade (sort of).  Hands had to have touched the product somewhere along the manufacturing process.  Hey, I'm not judging.  (I never claimed to mine my own metals or dig up my own gemstones.)

Here's what I'm NOT seeing in the top 1000 - intricate, well thought out, artisan handmade jewelry.  Sure, it does sell here and there, but lets face it, artisan items are a highly subjective taste.  People will either love or hate an artisan piece, but what's to hate about a little bird on a branch?  That is why the handmaking artist is starving.  So what to do, if you don't want to give up your work?

You need a day job, or you need a separate line to sell that will appeal to the masses.  Take your pick.  Don't get depressed about it.  Historically, all the great artists in the world were poor when they relied only on creating what spoke to THEM.  They only managed to earn income when wealthy patrons commissioned them to paint a portrait or carve a bust of either their wife, their mistress, or themselves.  You have to appeal to the patrons out there, and give them a reason to "support your art". 

Many jewelers I know have a bead supply shop on the side. (more on that, in my next entry).  Many knitters come up with their own patterns, or sell patterns from magazines.  Clothing designers will outsource production to keep costs down, and not get too "haute couture".  Keep it simple - that seems to be the golden rule for 2012. Remember, you are not selling your soul, you are making it possible to do what you truly love, without the burden of sales figures looming over your head.  You can place your art in galleries for commission, instead of sweating over trying to get wholesale contracts (overrated, IMHO).  Basically, by diversifying into a side business with a successful formula, you are buying your freedom to create.


Either that, or you need to marry someone rich. ;-P

Pantone Spring 2012

And the winner is... Tangerine Tango! Read all about it at the link.

Here's a preview of what you can expect in jewelry trends. These colors really make me smile, and they're a joy to work with on a cold January day.

And here's what designers like Gaultier, Missoni and McCartney are putting in the shops RIGHT NOW. Be sure to check the color cards on the left hand column of these links, and see how closely they line up with the Pantone forecast.

Now, I don't know about you, but I look TERRIBLE in orange! Don't let that scare you off. Think coral, salmon and persimmon, and keep the really hot shades for small accessories and accents. Pair it with turquoise, and you have an instant classic. With pale melon green, it calms down and becomes a citrus splash of refreshing coolness. With an unexpected accent of pale lavender blue, it brings to mind a field of wild flowers, yarrow and cornflower nodding in the summer heat.

Here's part of what my current bead stash looks like. I pulled these out of my stock to see how well the colors "play together".

I highly recommend you go through your wardrobe, yarn pile, fabric stacks, etc., and see what you can come up with in the Pantone palette. It's a great exercise!

Rose (pink) gold is emerging as the HOT new metal of the day, after decades of being considered terribly old fashioned, and only fit for Victorian watch fobs. If you follow trend sites like HauteLook or Fab.com, you already know what I'm talking about. It's everywhere!

For those of us mere mortals on a budget, there's rose gold vermeil over Karen Hill Tribe silver, 14k rose gold plating over both brass and alloy, and even bright polished copper for a darker rosy look. Rose gold compliments every skin tone, whether you are a "warm, cool or neutral". Darker skin tones can really rock the bright copper look like no one else!

Be sure to check out B'Sue's Boutique for delicious jewelry supplies custom plated in her proprietary Rose Gold finish. Sure, you can find something less expensive, but once you get your hands on her pieces, you'll never go back. Rich,warm and absolutely gorgeous, with a plating so thick you won't believe it's "costume quality". Her items come in relatively small batches, so if you see something you like, grab it quick!

Less is more, so look for high quality materials and key pieces to highlight minimalist designs. "Effortless chic" is the phrase of the day, and it's harder to accomplish than you'd think. For many years now, I've been operating on the theory that if a bunch of beads is good, then a whole bunch more is even better! Now, it's a matter of finding that perfect bead, with just the right chain, and a charm that's not too big or too small. Scale and balance are everything. Even if you get all the colors right, if it doesn't "feel right" to the eye, it won't sell.

Pre-Fall 2012 will be more of the same, but with the colors more muted, softer and dustier looking. The turquoise blue will be replaced with slate blue, and sand beige will play a much more prominent role as an anchor to coral and carnelian tones. You'll be seeing more oxidized copper in earthy Tibetan style beads.

Bronze ox and brass ox will always be fashionable for Victorian romantic styles - and of course for the steampunks. You'll have to pry that oxidized brass out of their cold, dead, gear enhanced armature! The goths, in their unholy graves, will never give up their silver and gunmetal hematite. Be that as it may, if you want to be on trend for the next few seasons, do the Tangerine Tango and think PINK for your metals.

Happy creating!

Steampunk Jewelry Sale, and FREE SHIPPING DEALS!

Well, I have some good news and some bad news:

First, the good news, I've finally been approved to sell on Amazon.com!
The bad news, they only want stark white backgrounds.

The good news for YOU, everything on my site that has a background other than white or slightly off white ships for FREE, both domestically and internationally (I'll adjust the shipping cost when I pack your order, it's too hard to code everything individually).

Even better news, everything on the site is now 25% off until Oct 30th, so you can get all your Halloween and Steamcon accessories at a great price.

If you're looking for something fun, funky or offbeat, I now have an Artfire store for all of my random projects. I'm also destashing a lof of my jewelry making supplies, beads, findings, etc. I often have to buy in bulk from wholesalers to get the best prices, and now I can pass my surplus on to you at pennies above my cost. I just want more room in my studio! Check out my ArtfireSupplies shop and watch for new bargains every week. If you want to combine shipping with any of my shops, just drop me an email after you order and I'll make sure you get the very best rates possible. I understand that every penny counts, and that you'd rather spend money on pretties instead of postage.

Please buy them, so I don't have to rephotograph them all!

Your coupon code is: BLACKISBEAUTIFUL This is NOT a "one time use coupon", and the deal is good for two months, so feel free to share it with your friends!

Thanks! Grace @ Rivkasmom.com

Columbia City Art Walk: Grace Acosta, Rivkasmom at Columbia City Artwalk

Columbia City Art Walk: Grace Acosta, Rivkasmom at Columbia City Artwalk: "Grace Acosta Designer"

Curiously Creative Collaboration

The first time I saw the work of of A.G. Quinn I was enchanted. I immediately marked her as a favorite, and especially the badger portrait. I have seen “mash up portraiture” before. In fact, it goes back to the earliest days of photography. Still, There was something special about her work. The tilt of the head matches angle of the body perfectly. The backgrounds are seamless and the light balance makes the whole image smooth and believable. Combined with the use of mica and traditional framing techniques, the overall effect whisks you away to another time.

Imagine my surprise and delight when she emailed me and asked if I would like to to collaborate on a line of jewelry! I was even more surprised to see that we shared the good fortune of living in Seattle. We emailed back and forth for a bit, discussing our visions of what things might look like, and agreed that this would indeed be a good fit for our work. We met at my studio, and then, the real fun began.

We based these designs on various sources, including Victorian and Regency era “sweetheart” portraits, hand painted Limoges, Fabrege settings, and traditional mourning jewelry. I added a few steampunk touches here and there, because after all, they do live in an alternate universe.

I have not made any copies of the source material that she gave me, but rather worked directly with the photographic contact sheets that she supplied. This keeps the images sharp, clear and true to the original quality. Ms. Quinn’s work is too special to be mass produced!

Each one of these items is absolutely one of a kind, a piece of wearable art that is sure to become the prize of your collection.

What type of glue do you use?

Oh man, I wish I had a dime for every time I’ve been asked that. After many, many years of experimenting I’m finally ready to reveal some of my trials and errors.

I’m sure that many of you are familiar with the website This to That, and it is very useful at times, but still, YMMV. Before I get into what I do use, I’d like to discuss what I don’t use, and why.

There is a lot of snobbery in the jewelry world from the people who do hot connections towards the people who do cold connections. Sure, it’s hip to risk burning yourself for the sake of art, but it’s not always necessary, either. Soldering is a very tricky business, and can either give you a flawless professional finish, or it can ruin your work irreparably.

Metals have very different melting points, and when you’re trying to join a tiny brass gear to a large steel pocket watch case, the differences in materials is going to give you a heck of a time. Even if you do get the seam or join you want, then you have to deal with things like fire scale, pickling, polishing, etc. Total PITA if you ask me.

Another popular way to assemble metals is to use a rivet set. You can get some really awesome industrial looks with riveting, and I’d really like to learn how to do it some day. You can use a wide variety of metals, and you don’t risk burning the house down. You do, however, have to buy a set of punches, a bench block, the right types of hammers, and keep a stock of all different sizes of rivets in different metals, as well as a drill to make your holes. Now try riveting that 4mm gear. Not as easy as you thought, eh? Not to mention the fact that if your hammer or pin slips, you’ve just smashed up your work, your fingers, or both. There may be much swearing involved, and this could be a problem if there are impressionable children around.

This to That recommends JB Weld 2 part metal bearing epoxy for metal assembly. While this stuff may be just the ticket for repairing your radiator, I’ve found it to be less impressive for detail work. If you get the mix exactly 50/50 and get everything set up and clamped in plenty of time for it to cure properly, then it will be bulletproof. If you get the mixture even a teeny bit off, or if you’ve delayed a bit and it’s started to cure already, then you will get a very brittle and unpredictable bond that will look stable, but could fall apart on you at any time. The fact that it’s a really ugly, lumpy looking pile of gray ooze on the back of your jewelry is another major drawback in my book.

Two part 2 Ton Epoxy is another adhesive that gets a lot of mention, but I’m not a fan of it either. It has all of the problems that JB Weld has, except that it dries clear. It’s still unpredictable, and even MORE fussy to work with. It stinks, it’s horribly toxic, and it is sticky as all get out. I tried to like it, I really did. I tried 2 minute set, 5 minute set, 30 and 90 minute set times. All of them were so hit and miss that it drove me crazy, and I spent a lot of time fixing bad connections.

So, you still with me? Yay, you get a cookie!

Here’s what I like to use. E6000 http://www.dickblick.com/products/e6000-jewelry-adhesive/
I buy it by the case.

There’s a trick to using E6000, but it’s pretty common sense, really. First of all, you have to prep, prep, prep your surfaces. This is a great thing to do if you are bored or feeling uninspired. No creativity? No problem, get in there and prep your supplies.

The first step is to get a Dremel, or some other type of flex shaft with a grinding wheel. You’ll want a really coarse grit for this. Scuff up every surface that you want to adhere, and scuff it good. Then degrease all of the parts with acetone or rubbing alcohol, and let dry. Next time the muse hits you, you’ll be able to just grab a part that’s ready to go, and you will thank me, oh yes you will.

Now, apply a THIN layer of E6000. The strength is NOT in the volume, that’s a major mistake that most people make. If there is a bit of ooze, wipe it off with a Q-tip or a wooden popsicle stick, OR you can do your cleanup later.

PAY ATTENTION, THIS IS THE SECRET!

Clamp every single part that you are gluing. Clamp it like you’re afraid it’s going jump off your bench and run away. Clamp like you’ve never clamped before. THIS is what makes the adhesive really cure hard. Leave it for 24 hours, and you will have a very, very secure join. When it starts to set up you can clean up any oozing with a scalpel or extremely sharp craft knife, by trimming around your components and then gently teasing away the excess. You can only do this in the first 12 to 24 hours, after that it’s nearly impossible.

The bad news is, if you didn’t clamp the parts straight, then once the glue is set you will end up with a crooked assembly. I’ve had pieces where I’ve taken a knife blade and tried to wiggle them apart, and then I tried to pry them apart like shucking an oyster. No go. They were stuck, and stuck good, so make sure that you’re positioning is perfect.

The next day, give your work the “yank test” to make sure that everything is holding tight. Sometimes, rarely, when there’s too much humidity, Mercury is retrograde, and there’s a bad moon risin’, things will come loose and you’ll have to do it over. Better to find out now, rather than later.

Extra tip: If you are working in layers, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Glue and clamp the pin to the brooch base, and let set overnight. If that’s holding well, the next day you can add some more elements, glue and clamp, and check. Then you can add the stones, finishing touches, whatever. It can take a week or more to make a really detailed piece, but it will be worth it knowing that you’ve done your very best every step of the way.

Now go make something cool!