Pantone Spring 2012

And the winner is... Tangerine Tango! Read all about it at the link.

Here's a preview of what you can expect in jewelry trends. These colors really make me smile, and they're a joy to work with on a cold January day.

And here's what designers like Gaultier, Missoni and McCartney are putting in the shops RIGHT NOW. Be sure to check the color cards on the left hand column of these links, and see how closely they line up with the Pantone forecast.

Now, I don't know about you, but I look TERRIBLE in orange! Don't let that scare you off. Think coral, salmon and persimmon, and keep the really hot shades for small accessories and accents. Pair it with turquoise, and you have an instant classic. With pale melon green, it calms down and becomes a citrus splash of refreshing coolness. With an unexpected accent of pale lavender blue, it brings to mind a field of wild flowers, yarrow and cornflower nodding in the summer heat.

Here's part of what my current bead stash looks like. I pulled these out of my stock to see how well the colors "play together".

I highly recommend you go through your wardrobe, yarn pile, fabric stacks, etc., and see what you can come up with in the Pantone palette. It's a great exercise!

Rose (pink) gold is emerging as the HOT new metal of the day, after decades of being considered terribly old fashioned, and only fit for Victorian watch fobs. If you follow trend sites like HauteLook or Fab.com, you already know what I'm talking about. It's everywhere!

For those of us mere mortals on a budget, there's rose gold vermeil over Karen Hill Tribe silver, 14k rose gold plating over both brass and alloy, and even bright polished copper for a darker rosy look. Rose gold compliments every skin tone, whether you are a "warm, cool or neutral". Darker skin tones can really rock the bright copper look like no one else!

Be sure to check out B'Sue's Boutique for delicious jewelry supplies custom plated in her proprietary Rose Gold finish. Sure, you can find something less expensive, but once you get your hands on her pieces, you'll never go back. Rich,warm and absolutely gorgeous, with a plating so thick you won't believe it's "costume quality". Her items come in relatively small batches, so if you see something you like, grab it quick!

Less is more, so look for high quality materials and key pieces to highlight minimalist designs. "Effortless chic" is the phrase of the day, and it's harder to accomplish than you'd think. For many years now, I've been operating on the theory that if a bunch of beads is good, then a whole bunch more is even better! Now, it's a matter of finding that perfect bead, with just the right chain, and a charm that's not too big or too small. Scale and balance are everything. Even if you get all the colors right, if it doesn't "feel right" to the eye, it won't sell.

Pre-Fall 2012 will be more of the same, but with the colors more muted, softer and dustier looking. The turquoise blue will be replaced with slate blue, and sand beige will play a much more prominent role as an anchor to coral and carnelian tones. You'll be seeing more oxidized copper in earthy Tibetan style beads.

Bronze ox and brass ox will always be fashionable for Victorian romantic styles - and of course for the steampunks. You'll have to pry that oxidized brass out of their cold, dead, gear enhanced armature! The goths, in their unholy graves, will never give up their silver and gunmetal hematite. Be that as it may, if you want to be on trend for the next few seasons, do the Tangerine Tango and think PINK for your metals.

Happy creating!

What type of glue do you use?

Oh man, I wish I had a dime for every time I’ve been asked that. After many, many years of experimenting I’m finally ready to reveal some of my trials and errors.

I’m sure that many of you are familiar with the website This to That, and it is very useful at times, but still, YMMV. Before I get into what I do use, I’d like to discuss what I don’t use, and why.

There is a lot of snobbery in the jewelry world from the people who do hot connections towards the people who do cold connections. Sure, it’s hip to risk burning yourself for the sake of art, but it’s not always necessary, either. Soldering is a very tricky business, and can either give you a flawless professional finish, or it can ruin your work irreparably.

Metals have very different melting points, and when you’re trying to join a tiny brass gear to a large steel pocket watch case, the differences in materials is going to give you a heck of a time. Even if you do get the seam or join you want, then you have to deal with things like fire scale, pickling, polishing, etc. Total PITA if you ask me.

Another popular way to assemble metals is to use a rivet set. You can get some really awesome industrial looks with riveting, and I’d really like to learn how to do it some day. You can use a wide variety of metals, and you don’t risk burning the house down. You do, however, have to buy a set of punches, a bench block, the right types of hammers, and keep a stock of all different sizes of rivets in different metals, as well as a drill to make your holes. Now try riveting that 4mm gear. Not as easy as you thought, eh? Not to mention the fact that if your hammer or pin slips, you’ve just smashed up your work, your fingers, or both. There may be much swearing involved, and this could be a problem if there are impressionable children around.

This to That recommends JB Weld 2 part metal bearing epoxy for metal assembly. While this stuff may be just the ticket for repairing your radiator, I’ve found it to be less impressive for detail work. If you get the mix exactly 50/50 and get everything set up and clamped in plenty of time for it to cure properly, then it will be bulletproof. If you get the mixture even a teeny bit off, or if you’ve delayed a bit and it’s started to cure already, then you will get a very brittle and unpredictable bond that will look stable, but could fall apart on you at any time. The fact that it’s a really ugly, lumpy looking pile of gray ooze on the back of your jewelry is another major drawback in my book.

Two part 2 Ton Epoxy is another adhesive that gets a lot of mention, but I’m not a fan of it either. It has all of the problems that JB Weld has, except that it dries clear. It’s still unpredictable, and even MORE fussy to work with. It stinks, it’s horribly toxic, and it is sticky as all get out. I tried to like it, I really did. I tried 2 minute set, 5 minute set, 30 and 90 minute set times. All of them were so hit and miss that it drove me crazy, and I spent a lot of time fixing bad connections.

So, you still with me? Yay, you get a cookie!

Here’s what I like to use. E6000 http://www.dickblick.com/products/e6000-jewelry-adhesive/
I buy it by the case.

There’s a trick to using E6000, but it’s pretty common sense, really. First of all, you have to prep, prep, prep your surfaces. This is a great thing to do if you are bored or feeling uninspired. No creativity? No problem, get in there and prep your supplies.

The first step is to get a Dremel, or some other type of flex shaft with a grinding wheel. You’ll want a really coarse grit for this. Scuff up every surface that you want to adhere, and scuff it good. Then degrease all of the parts with acetone or rubbing alcohol, and let dry. Next time the muse hits you, you’ll be able to just grab a part that’s ready to go, and you will thank me, oh yes you will.

Now, apply a THIN layer of E6000. The strength is NOT in the volume, that’s a major mistake that most people make. If there is a bit of ooze, wipe it off with a Q-tip or a wooden popsicle stick, OR you can do your cleanup later.

PAY ATTENTION, THIS IS THE SECRET!

Clamp every single part that you are gluing. Clamp it like you’re afraid it’s going jump off your bench and run away. Clamp like you’ve never clamped before. THIS is what makes the adhesive really cure hard. Leave it for 24 hours, and you will have a very, very secure join. When it starts to set up you can clean up any oozing with a scalpel or extremely sharp craft knife, by trimming around your components and then gently teasing away the excess. You can only do this in the first 12 to 24 hours, after that it’s nearly impossible.

The bad news is, if you didn’t clamp the parts straight, then once the glue is set you will end up with a crooked assembly. I’ve had pieces where I’ve taken a knife blade and tried to wiggle them apart, and then I tried to pry them apart like shucking an oyster. No go. They were stuck, and stuck good, so make sure that you’re positioning is perfect.

The next day, give your work the “yank test” to make sure that everything is holding tight. Sometimes, rarely, when there’s too much humidity, Mercury is retrograde, and there’s a bad moon risin’, things will come loose and you’ll have to do it over. Better to find out now, rather than later.

Extra tip: If you are working in layers, start at the bottom and work your way to the top. Glue and clamp the pin to the brooch base, and let set overnight. If that’s holding well, the next day you can add some more elements, glue and clamp, and check. Then you can add the stones, finishing touches, whatever. It can take a week or more to make a really detailed piece, but it will be worth it knowing that you’ve done your very best every step of the way.

Now go make something cool!

You Already Own the Perfect Lipstick

Really, you do. All of those failed lipsticks, the ones that you can't bring yourself to throw away because you spent so much money on them, they're just waiting for you. Every red that came out too pink, every coral that was too orange, every copper that was too gold, every mauve that was too gray. They are all your perfect lipstick.

The truth is, just like your ex, you had to see something in them when you brought them home, right? Of course you're wondering "What was I thinking?", but now there is an answer. We're going to combine them to enhance good points and downplay the bad points.

Step one, get a bamboo skewer or chopstick, and scrape all of the contents of your lipstick rejects into a metal cup. A measuring cup with a pour spout will be perfect for this. If it doesn't have a pour spout, you can take a pair of pliers and bend the edge to make a point. This is very important later on. Leave a tiny bit of lipstick in the bottom of each lipstick tube. They have a hole in the bottom, and you want to make sure that stays plugged.
Next, add some lip balm, preferably with sunscreen. Also add any blend you like of shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil or jojoba oil. This will make your lipstick smoother and keep your lips soft. If you want a matte lipstick, you can add some mineral makeup powder to take down the shine.
I can't believe I've been hoarding so many of these lipsticks!
Here's a shot of the crazy mish-mash. There's mood lipsticks, lip stains, lip gloss, body butter, jojoba oil, black gothic lipstick (!) hot pink, purple, silver, and a half a dozen reds that kept wanting to turn odd colors on me.
Now, put down tinfoil on your work surface. If you get the counter a bit damp first, the tinfoil will stick in one place and not fly around. Line up your empty cases. You won't need all of them, so ditch the dollar store lipsticks. Be a diva and save the Chanel and Lancombe cases!
Set your mish-mash over a pan of boiling water and stir frequently. It may take a while to melt at first. Resist the urge to put the measuring cup on direct heat. RESIST!
Some lipsticks will melt faster than others, so keep stirring until the mixture is completely smooth, and then stir some more. You can add a little vanilla extract right now if you want to.
Mmmmmmmm, raspberry sparkle! Can you believe how pretty this color is?
Here's the thing that really got me. I had discovered my "one true love" lip gloss, made by MAC. It's the only beauty product I'll drive halfway across town to buy. My new lipstick color is an EXACT MATCH! All those tones that "almost" worked, combined to make my perfect lipstick.
I couldn't photograph the next step, because I was using both of my hands. What you do is take your lipstick tubes and twist them down all the way to the bottom. Very carefully pour the lipstick into your tubes and set them aside to cool. You'll notice that the lipstick will start shrinking. When all the tubes are filled, let them rest for a bit.
While you are pouring, the lipstick will start to get cold. Put it back into the pan with the hot water and let it melt again. Go back and top off all of your lipsticks with a nice smooth dome. Unless you have a lipstick mold you won't get that pointy shape, but who cares?

Now you have a bunch of lipsticks that are all in your perfect shade! I can't believe I have SIXTEEN gorgeous new lipsticks, and I got rid of a shoe box full of ugly rejects. I had a ton of fun doing it, too. It was the perfect rainy day project (and living in Seattle, it's a good thing to have lots of ideas for rainy days!).

Helpful hint: Your perfect lipstick is also the perfect color for blush. Dab some on your fingers or a makeup sponge and use it like rouge. Put it on a shade darker than you think you should, and then set it with loose powder for a glow that will last all day long without touchups. You'll look very healthy and natural.

Disclaimer: PLEASE do not sell or give away your lipsticks! Keep them for yourself. Otherwise you'll be breaking every health and safety law known to mankind, and reusing the lipstick cases for commercial purposes is a violation of the manufacturer's rights.

How to Create a Photography Studio in Two Square Feet of Space

How to take pictures like a pro, or at least trick people into thinking that you have a large, spacious studio.First of all, get the best camera you can afford. Bring a piece of your work to the camera store, and a piece of something that you use for a backdrop, and use the store cameras to take pictures. Play with the different settings, but pay special attention to our dear, beloved MACRO setting. Your camera can make you look like a total genius, or a complete newbie, so think long and hard about spending that extra $50 for image stabilization (it's worth it!)

My personal favorite is the Canon PowerShot SX100IS with a 10x zoom. The camera increased the quality of my listings so much, my sales picked up immediately, and I had the camera costs completely covered within two weeks. Talk about a good investment!
Second, you will need a West facing window if you are an afternoon worker, or an East facing window if you are a morning person (I've hear they exist, but I've never been up early enough so actually see one.) Then, you'll have to clear off some space on that desk or table that's under the window. (HAHAHAHAHAHA! - no, really. You need to clear that off. )

You'll need some sort of white scrim to filter out the light and soften the shadows, without making the space too dark. I like white silk dupioni, which you can get at any fabric store back in the bridal section. Get two pieces. One for your tabletop, and one for the backdrop. If you want to be really efficient, have an extra piece on hand in case you get a big smudge on your tabletop cloth and you have to go wash it. You can use the backup and keep on working.
You'll need a few extra bits, like some 20# printer paper to use as an additional light diffuser for things that are extra glossy (like cabochons and watch cases), and you'll need a few nice props. The mistake that most people make is that they think they need a zillion props to keep their pictures interesting. Your WORK should be keeping the picture interesting, and the props should be there to hold your work up to the light. Clear and frosted glassware are always good bets. A simple necklace form and hand form are essential. I've found that a wine glass is perfect for earrings. Cheap and easy props can be found at NileCorp
Now here's the tricky part. You have to wait for a sunny day, where the light hits your window just right. In the summer, I spend at least half my day taking pictures. In the winter, I can go weeks and weeks without being able to photograph a single thing. The you get a sun break, you go madly rushing toward your little studio, get your work out, get the camera ready (Oh no, the batteries are dead!) Rush around looking for batteries, and then the sun will go behind the clouds for another three weeks.

This leads me to my final point. Be Prepared. Keep everything that's waiting for pictures in one place. Keep your photograph area clean and organized at all times. Do not let grubby little fingers play over there, do not set your coffee cup there, do not leave yesterday's mail there.

One last tip. If you have pets who shed, keep a can of compressed air handy and hold it an an angle to your tablecloth. Give it a good blast right before you start work. Macro shots will pick up EVERYTHING in the frame, whether you want it there or not.

Click through my Flickr Group, and you'll get a feel for the kind of natural light that I prefer to work with. No extra lighting of any kind was used. Just what the sun sent in through the window and the fabric.

Best Advice EVAR!

Sometimes, you run across an article that says everything you've been wanting to say, only it's better. It's smarter, more informed, and more useful than anything you'd ever come up with in a month of Sundays.

If you have ever wanted to sell your artwork in stores, please read these two blog entries first. Then, go check out Alicia's shop, because she deserves it. :-)
Part 1
Part 2